Hokkoku Tōrimachi

Hokkoku Tōrimachi is a historic shopping street that developed along part of the old Hokkoku Kaidō, a major highway of the Edo period linking the Hokuriku region with inland routes towards central Japan. Located near Komatsu Station in Komatsu City, south of Kanazawa, the street formed part of a wider network of post towns and merchant districts that prospered from traffic along this important corridor. The name “Hokkoku” refers to the historic highway itself, meaning “Northern Country Road”, while “Tōrimachi” indicates a commercial thoroughfare or market street.

During the Edo period, the Hokkoku Kaidō functioned as a vital transport route for goods, officials and travellers. Komatsu Castle stood nearby, and the surrounding town developed to support both the castle and the flow of trade. A distinct kink in the main road was intended to confuse potential attackers, and this kink now forms the logo of the town association. By the late eighteenth century, the area around Hokkoku Tōrimachi had grown into a substantial settlement with numerous merchant houses. Wholesalers dealing in silk, rush mats and other regional products operated along the street, reflecting the importance of textile production and agricultural trade in the region. The street layout includes a noticeable bend, which is said to have served a defensive purpose by limiting direct lines of sight towards the castle.

Architecturally, Hokkoku Tōrimachi retains elements of traditional machiya townhouses, with wooden façades, tiled roofs and latticework that recall its commercial past. Some buildings date back many decades and have been preserved or adapted for contemporary use. In recent years, efforts have been made to revitalise the street while maintaining its historical character. Former merchant houses now accommodate cafés, craft shops, small galleries and specialist retailers, creating a layered environment in which older architectural forms coexist with modern businesses.

The area continues to function as a local commercial district rather than a purely touristic site. Community events and small markets are occasionally held along the street, reinforcing its identity as a shared civic space. Its proximity to Komatsu Station makes it accessible, yet it retains a quieter atmosphere compared with larger urban centres. Hokkoku Tōrimachi offers insight into how regional trade routes shaped settlement patterns in Hokuriku and how historic merchant streets can be adapted for contemporary use without losing their historical context.

Today, the area is being actively developed by local residents and shopkeepers. Several of the townhouses have been converted into guesthouses with an authentic Japanese atmosphere. We spent an enjoyable day dropping into several shops to have a go at making a miniature tatami mat and the local roasted tea, both of which make light, compact souvenirs. We learnt a lot about the economy and customs of a small castle town and the continuity between past and present. The residents of Tōrimachi are determined to connect their heritage to future generations.