Miyoshi

Miyoshi city in Hiroshima is located almost in the centre of the Chūgoku region, with the Chūgoku Mountains in the north and a flat agricultural area in the south. Together with the neighbouring city of Shōbara, it forms the northern part of the prefecture known as the Bihoku region.

About one-third of the rain that falls in Hiroshima Prefecture collects in this area, ensuring abundant water. Due to the confluence of several rivers in central Miyoshi, the region is prone to heavy morning fog from late autumn to early spring. This fog lies in the valley like a sea, and if you go up Mt. Takatani early in the morning, you can watch the sun rise over this sea, creating a kaleidoscope of rainbow colours on the surface of the fog.

Due to its foggy nature, Miyoshi became known as a city of spectres and monsters that inhabited its greyed out streets. One of the city’s highlights is the Miyoshi Mononoke Museum dedicated to the mythical creatures of Japanese folklore. This unique museum provides a deep dive into the fascinating world of yōkai and is especially appealing to fans of Japanese mythology. Another museum worth visiting is the Okuda Gensō Sayume Art Museum, located near Mount Kasa. The museum features the works of Okuda Gensō, a master of Nihonga Japanese-style painting, and large dolls made by his wife Sayume.

History
Because the tributaries of the Gōno River meet in the Miyoshi Basin, the city flourished as a river port and has long served as a cultural, economic, and transportation hub linking the San’in and San’yō regions. Once called Itsukaichi, it was a castle town of the Miyoshi Domain, a branch of the Hiroshima Domain in the Edo period. The present city centre area where Miyoshi Station is located was once a separate municipality called Tokkaichi. Fish caught using cormorants were used as an important trading commodity.

Food
The city is part of the Sera Highlands, a region known for its fruit farms. You can enjoy fresh, juicy peaches, grapes, and apples straight from the orchards. The grapes are made into prize-winning wines at the Miyoshi Winery. High quality wagyu cattle is raised in Miyoshi. The animals are fed with the residue of the grapes used for pressing the wine. The milk of cows and goats is processed into cheese at the Mirasaka Fromage farm. Miyoshi is also home to a couple of excellent sake producers, the Miwasakura and Yamaoka breweries. Shark meat, popularly known as wani (crocodile), is relatively easy to preserve, and it satisfies the craving of inland dwellers for sea fish.

One of the town’s defunct breweries has been redeveloped as accommodation and a restaurant, Mansabō, located on a street of traditional shops and houses. The lights on this old street are decorated with images of the various monsters that lurk in the city’s fog.

Adventure
With its rivers and mountains, Miyoshi is ideal for adventure. The Gōno River flowing through Miyoshi is well suited for long distance river rafting and kayaking, while its banks make a pleasant cycling route.

Fishing using specially trained cormorants has been carried out in Asia for centuries, and the practice has been maintained in several parts of Japan. In the Edo period, fishing with cormorants was a major part of the castle town economy, and today, it supports the tourist economy. You can visit the shelters where the cormorants live, and learn about their fascinating family life from a cormorant master. When evening comes, you take to the river in covered boats and watch the remarkable teamwork between master and birds as they catch a variety of fish. Dinner is served with delicious local sake.

Accommodation
Miyoshi has some unique accommodation options. Mansabō, the restaurant mentioned above, has two elegantly refurbished homes on the old street, suitable for the needs of couples or families. Kimita Onsen, a short distance from Miyoshi town centre, has spacious rooms, wonderful hot spring baths, and a bar-lounge with free drinks. Both accommodations make a good base for adventure around Miyoshi.