Suigun RIB Tours
Suigun RIB tours offer thrilling rides in speedboats through the dynamic channels of the Seto Inland Sea.
The town of Onomichi sits on a narrow channel between the mainland of Hiroshima and Mukaishima. While many arrive to cycle the Shimanami Kaidō, a different perspective awaits on the water with a bumpy ride on a Rigid Inflatable Boat, or RIB. These vessels combine a solid, V-shaped hull with inflatable tubes around the gunwale, allowing for high speeds and stability in the unpredictable currents of the Seto Inland Sea. Unlike the slow-moving ferries that ply these routes, these boats are designed for rapid manoeuvres, mimicking the agility required by the maritime clans that once controlled these specific narrows.
These waters were the primary domain of the Murakami Suigun, a sophisticated naval organisation often inaccurately described as mere pirates. During the Warring States Period, they functioned as a maritime police force and toll collectors, ensuring safe passage for trade ships in exchange for fees. They didn’t rely on brute force alone; their power came from an intimate knowledge of tidal currents. The Seto Inland Sea behaves like a series of fast-flowing rivers that change direction four times a day, creating dangerous whirlpools. The Suigun built their fortresses on tiny islands like Innoshima and Noshima, positioned specifically where the current was most treacherous, forcing passing ships to seek their guidance.
The RIB tours departing from Onomichi allow you to experience these tidal shifts firsthand. At peak flow, the water levels between the islands can differ by several centimetres, creating visible ridges and standing waves. The highly skilled boat captains navigate through the narrowest straits where the cliffs of the islands nearly touch. Because the RIB has a shallow draught and high-powered outboard engines, it can enter turbulent zones that larger sightseeing vessels must avoid. This fast-moving water and these narrow channels were the Suigun’s greatest defensive asset.
As you might expect in the land of cosplay, the tour operators provide bright red haori coats and replica swords for use during the trip. The haori is a jacket traditionally worn over a kimono, and the versions provided here features the distinctive Murakami clan crest. Sitting in the bow waving a sword provides a sense of the tiny scale of the Suigun’s main vessels, which were small, fast hybrid rowing and sailing boats used for interdiction operations.
The tour starts at a leisurely pace in the calm Onomichi channel plied by large commercial vessels. When it hits the wakes of passing ships, the RIB bucks with a hearty slapping sound. You pass under the twin suspension bridges linking Mukaishima to the main island. As you exit the channel, the guide announces a change of pace. Invented in the UK as lifeboats, the twin-engined RIB goes very fast. The highlight of the tour is the high-speed spiral where the captain throws the boat into an increasingly tight turn. The whole vessel leans over steeply and the high Gs press you into your seat. It’s like a fairground ride, only more fun. Be sure to have your sword ready to wave during this thrilling manoeuvre.
RIB tours can be configured to your requirements and budget, so you can choose what to see and do. But whether you choose the standard tour or a customised jaunt, you won’t just be looking at the scenery — you’ll be engaging with a dynamic hydraulic landscape that once required a private navy to navigate safely.
